Tie Advice from fashion historian and co-designer at Stinson R. Ely.
Stinson R. Ely - Spring/Summer 2012 Collection Look Book is available for download!
Scroll down the Contact page and click on the link to download the PDF file for the Spring Summer 2012 Collection Look Book.
Introducing The Finest American-Made Slacks: Stinson R. Ely by Adrian Jules at MRket the exclusive show for the menswear industry - tailored to contemporary on January 22-24, 2012 in New York.
Rarely does a designer emerge who is at once both avant guarde and iconically classic. Andy Stinson, inspired by Robbi Ely, has created such a collection, Stinson R. Ely. His design ethos is the golden period of 1930’s Hollywood, a time when many feel men’s fashion reached it’s highest pinnacle. Bold and simple colors and patterns are cut with a high waist and full fit, quite the contrary to the current vogue, yet meant to be appreciated by the true individual. Continuous waistbands and deep pleats offer a drape that flatters any body type, transforming the wearer into a leaner, more elegant version of himself, an icon in his own right. Have Andy create a pair of his custom trousers for you, exclusively at Liles Clothing Studio.
Confirming his intent to become a power player in ultra-luxe men’s dress slacks, Freshman designer, Andy Stinson, today announced adding Holland & Sherry fabrics to its hand-crafted dress slack collection.
Jun 01, 2011. San Diego, CA. Andy Stinson, luxe fashion’s longtime brand imaging whiz turned menswear designer, today announced striking a second fabric alliance for his soon-to-launch, Stinson R. Ely Collection. This latest, with Holland & Sherry, is for dress slacks, exclusively, and dramatically expands the fledgling brand’s ritzy array of brightly colored, winter-weight gabardines and flannels.
Today’s announced deal adds Holland & Sherry to Lochcarron of Scotland as Stinson R. Ely’s two cloth resources and allies what are arguably the world’s two oldest and most prestigious weavers of luxury woolens. It also promises a slack collection interpreted in heavy, English-style “winter weights.” Both Britannia weavers, Savile Row’s Holland & Sherry touts a near-170-old history matched only by Lochcarron of Scotland, itself a 200-plus-year-old, still family-owned boutique weaver whose River Tweed mill crafts the world’s most luxurious, artisan crafted Tartans and flannels.
Strategically, the between-the-lines message in today’s announcement predicts nosebleed pricing and signals an even further narrowing of Stinson R. Ely’s already sliver-thin focus on a target audience of well-heeled dandies who habit menswear’s ultra-luxe niches. Rochester, New York’s Adrian Jules – itself hailed by in-the-know sartorialists as America’s premier maker of artisan hand-sewn clothing – will hand-craft the Collection’s dress and formal slacks.
Although Stinson declined to reveal retail prices, the combination of Adrian Jules’ Old World hand-make with cloth weavers Lochcarron of Scotland and Holland & Sherry, assures a dress and formal slack collection without rival, the world over, and promises retail prices in the $600 to $700 range, a wafer-thin niche with barely a handful of rivals.
Though few in numbers, Stinson R. Ely’s short list of rivals – all top Italia brands – rank among the world’s most aggressive fashion marketers and include the likes of Kiton, Zanella, Brioni, Barbera, Incotex, and Canali. All are rivals Stinson has successfully battled before on behalf of his agency’s list of Americana clients.
A widely renowned dandy, Stinson’s own design rep is for tastefully juxtaposing often flamboyant design twists atop classic design themes, then interpreting his retro-modern design cocktail in bold, adventurous coloring. His inaugural collection delivers on those expectations, in spades. Anchored by a risk-the-ranch revival of the iconic, ‘40s-era Hollywood Waistband dress slack, an Americana fashion classic that hasn’t been voguish in nearly 70-years, Stinson’s double-dare collection also reprises pleat fronts and bets heavily on their returning popularity.
Once the signature of the silver screen’s most dashing, matinee idols, the Hollywood Waistband’s physique flattering, sleight of hand knack for transforming Tinsel Town’s legendary leading men into long-legged, he-hunk Adonises won the Hollywood Waistband dress slack its enduring sobriquet and turned its high-waisted design into the world’s top fashion craze of the 30’s and 40’s.
A faithful reprise of the original design, Stinson modeled his line-up of Hollywood Waistband dress slacks in a mostly two-pleat front silhouette. But his most avant garde look is the Astaire Collection, a design modeled after the 4-pleat-front, Hollywood Waistband slack Fred Astaire re-designed and nicknamed his “third dance partner.”
Equally risky, Stinson chose a color story that snubs the expected list of Fall-hued earth-tones and instead touts a Spring-like palette that tilts heavily toward jewel-tone brights and includes Ketchup Red, Eggplant, Raspberry, Burnt Orange, Butterscotch and others.
Despite his luxe label’s freshman status, Stinson ranks a veteran designer who boasts an enviable list of design clients. Over his brand imaging firm’s 22-year tenure, Stinson and his longtime partner and co-designer, Robbi Ely, created the press and editorial collections for a bevy of top American and British luxury labels, including Robert Talbott and Audrey Talbott, Cole-Haan, Martin Dingman, Tommy Hilfiger, Insignia Design Group, Pantherella, Seaward & Stearn and others.
About Stinson R. Ely:
Born from the 22-year-old, Stinson/R. Ely & Partners, Inc. – the brand imaging, design and PR firm formed in 1988 by Andy Stinson and Robbi Ely — the debut collection of their luxe menswear brand features neckwear and pocket squares, dress slacks, sport coats, hosiery and dress shirts.
Bereft of basics, it’s a dandy’s collection, exclusively, its designs inspired by the Duke of Windsor and popularized by Hollywood’s dashing, silver screen idols.
Completed shortly before her passing, 18-months ago, Stinson R. Ely pays tribute to the design genius of co-designer, Robbi Ely, an ardent minimalist whose own design influence, time and again, proved the ageless saw that the most visually dramatic designs are those reduced to their simplest elements.
Stinson R. Ely — along with its parent, Stinson/R. Ely & Partners – are headquartered in San Diego, California, at 8775 Aero Drive. Zip code is 92123. Website is http://www.stinsonrely.com. Fall-Winter 2012 “look book” is available in print or PDF versions. Phone for Stinson/R. Ely & Partners corporate offices, Stinson R. Ely, or its co-designer, Andy Stinson, is 858-573-1698.
Stinson R. Ely is a founding member of the Alliance of American Luxury Makers (ALM). Visit the ALM blog at http://americanluxurymakers.tumblr.com/
J. Andy Stinson, co-designer
Bobbi Koller, associate designer
Drawing on two-decades of period movies and archival studio stills from the ’30s to mid-1940s for its design inspiration, Stinson R. Ely’s Astaire Collection revives the Hollywood Waistband slack Fred Astaire designed and called his “third dance partner.”
San Diego, CA. May 4, 2011. Freshman designer, Andy Stinson, may be the gutsiest designer since Ralph Lauren’s own contrarian gamble on the wide-tie struck pay dirt in the late-’60s.
No shrinking violet, the one-time brand image guru turned luxe designer, pinned his collection’s success – along with the future of his Stinson R. Ely brand — on a sink-or-swim redux of the 1940s-era, Hollywood Waistband slack, an Americana fashion icon that hasn’t been voguish in 70-years.
Like Lauren’s own wide-tie wager, Stinson’s high waisted, full-cut slack gambit cuts cross grain against prevailing fashion trends and pits his full-cut, Hollywood Waistband slack against the opposite and still red hot, plain-front, slim-cut silhouette.
With pleats only now flirting at fashion’s leading edge, Stinson’s mostly 2-pleat-front line-up is already a high- stakes bet on a pleat-front revival. But it’s Stinson’s most aggressive model, his four-front-pleat, Astaire Collection, that ranks his boldest, and certainly most audacious, risk. Named for the legendary dancer, Stinson’s four-pleat Astaire group is modeled after Fred Astaire’s own re-design of the Hollywood Waistband slack, a pant he called his “third dance partner.”
Once the signature of Hollywood’s most dashing, Silver Screen legends, thank the Hollywood Waistband’s physique flattering, sleight-of-hand knack for transforming the era’s most debonair cinema icons into slim waisted, long-legged, he-hunk Adonises for its movie star cachet and eponymous, “Hollywood” sobriquet.
Inspired by the slacks from the Duke of Windsor’s famed “Drape Suit,” the Hollywood Waistband slack boasts a tall waist and full-cut thighs stylishly enhanced by dropped belt loops. Absent a waistband, a fluid, uninterrupted drape sleekly tapers from its high waist to narrow, pegged cuffs. The figure flattering lines of its tall, streamlined, “V”-shaped silhouette creates an athletically masculine look that magically slims the waist and adds the illusion of long legs.
Hollywood Waistband’s heyday was also the salad days of song-and-dance musicals and tinsel town’s top “hoofers,” from Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly to Bill “Bojangles” Robinson, instantly made the Hollywood Waistband slack their own. Beyond its physique flattering look and illusion of longer legs, the slack’s one-piece design, pleated front and full-cut leg delivered an rivaled freedom of movement and comfort that dancers found irresistible. Fred Astaire, added his own twist: To its sometime one, but typically two-pleat-front, Astaire added still two more pleats; his totaling four-front-pleats, a hat trick that gave Astaire the freedom to work his legendary dance magic.
Drawing on two-decades of archival film and vintage studio stills that spanned the early-’30s to the mid-1940s for its design inspiration, Stinson R. Ely’s Astaire Collection includes both a belted style and another configured for braces, its tab buttons rigged for outside placement ala ’30s style.
Astaire, tells Stinson, wore both styles with equal aplomb, favoring the added freedom of suspendered versions for suit scenes and belt loops for slack-and-sport shirt shots. To his casual scenes Astaire, added yet another flair that became his personal signature: A silk four-in-hand tie threaded through his belt loops. Still another Astaire-created fashion twist, one that sparked its own craze, was a traditional belt but buckled at his left side, rather than at the front.
About Stinson R. Ely: Born from the 22-year-old, Stinson/R. Ely & Partners, Inc. - the brand imaging firm formed in 1988 by Andy Stinson and Robbi Ely - the debut collection of their luxe menswear brand features neckwear and pocket squares, dress slacks, sport coats, hosiery and dress shirts. Bereft of basics, it’s a dandy’s collection, exclusively, its designs inspired by the Duke of Windsor and popularized by Hollywood’s dashing, Silver Screen idols.
Stinson R. Ely — along with its parent, Stinson/R. Ely & Partners – is headquartered in San Diego, California, at 8775 Aero Drive. Zip code is 92123. Website is www.stinsonrely.com. Fall-Winter 2012 “look book” is available in print or PDF versions. Phone for Stinson/R. Ely & Partners corporate offices, Stinson R. Ely, or its co-designer, Andy Stinson, is 858-573-1698.
Stinson R. Ely is a founding member of the Alliance of American Luxury Makers (ALM).
Bobbi Koller, associate designer858-573-1698